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Spring-Summer 2017
Ready-to-Wear Show

30 September 2016 - Paris -
14H30 (GMT+02)

"I strive to be attentive and open to the world and to create fashion that resembles the women of today,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of the Dior haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections. “Fashion that corresponds to their changing needs, freed from the stereotypical categories of "masculine/feminine", "young/not so young", "reason/emotion", which nonetheless also happen to be complementary aspects. Fencing is a discipline in which the balance between thought and action, the harmony between mind and heart are essential. The uniform of the female fencer is, with the exception of some special protections, the same as for a male fencer. The female body adapts itself to an outfit which, in turn, seems to have been shaped to its curves.”

Maria Grazia Chiuri is the first woman to hold the creative reins at Dior. Her boldly feminine outlook - feminist is a recurring word for her - explores the rules of modern beauty to transpose them into a collection shaped by the sensual tension that exists between the body and clothing. Christian Dior’s New Look challenged notions of dress with modernity and rigor,giving back to women the curves and refinement that the war had erased;  with fashion that was revolutionary for the time. Maria Grazia Chiuri takes on the tradition of the house of Dior, placing the woman front and center, confounding expectations and questioning that which is taken for granted. She explores the form and shape of a silhouette that's contemporary, agile and Olympian; exhibiting an elite sporting elegance, while remaining within each woman’s reach. For a uniform this is both a unique and serial element. It is a place where the body’s individuality is prized, and where it can also find common ground with others.

The parts of this uniform, such as masks, jackets and lace, are fundamental elements whose lines highlight the constructive clarity of the project undertaken by Maria Grazia Chiuri, espousing the house’s founding spark – ignited by Christian Dior - to open-mindedly enter into an extraordinary story punctuated by a diversity of talents, appropriating (as in the work Postproduction by Nicolas Bourriaud) each useful item in order to create a new lexicon unfettered by any fashion preconceptions.

Fascinated by the house’s intimate and artisanal aspect, she has experimented with different materials in novel constructions and combinations. Through decontextualized forms injected with movement, she invents a dialogue between signs and gestures: the unoppressive corset that with lightness and lightly-worn irony expresses the desire to look and to appeal; the liberated glimpse of a technical and graphic undergarment that caresses the bust’s curves, its elastic adorned with brand-referencing puns, turning it into a kind of gothic and retro rap to the beat of JaDior. Ready-to-wear that embraces streetwear influences and techno materials, as well as that magical, dreamy, almost divinatory dimension, so dear to the founder of the house and expressed by Maria Grazia Chiuri in that notable phrase: “Learn to follow your dreams.” Sumptuous zodiac sign embroideries cover fabrics to the extent that they appear like paintings. A wealth of tarot figures cleverly transposed into different milieux suggest interpretations of the future.

Materials include cotton, which come in blue, white and black. And Christian Dior’s beloved red, in addition to gray and pink. Denim acts as a connective element. Tulle, silk chiffon and georgette are cut into maxi skirts whose varying lengths reflect a woman’s varying desires. But it is the beating heart embroidered on the chest, as in the first fencing outfits, that express better than a thousand words ever could, the intensity and strength of emotions possessed by the women of today.

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Silhouettes

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Before the catwalk

Go backstage just before the show began... a look at the models dressed and made up minutes before hitting the catwalk.

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Accessories

"I want to respect the happiness found in chance," Christian Dior decided. Hugely superstitious, he had always believed in his lucky star and willingly placed his faith in signs of fate. Lily-of-the-valley, wood and four-leaf clover were a constant presence, but he also created his own talismans, such as the star and the number 8. This superstition was second nature to him, and the couturier believed in the divinatory arts of fortune-tellers. This season, the accessories are sprinkled with a host of covetable good-luck charms; earrings, necklaces and signet rings utilized the motifs of the star, the heart, the four-leaf clover and the signs of the zodiac.

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Set Design

A look inside the venue that was housed at Musée Rodin, in the heart of Paris, just before the guests of the show arrived.

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Celebrities

For the occasion of Maria Grazia Chiuri's first collection for Dior, House muses Marion Cotillard, Natalie Portman, Jennifer Lawrence and Rihanna were present at the fashion show, as well as Diane Kruger, Kate Moss, Camille Rowe and many others. 

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Details

Focus on the important details and bright ideas by Maria Grazia Chiuri to give the perfect finishing touch to her Spring-Summer 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection presented at the Rodin Museum.

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Savoir-Faire

From pattern to final assembly, with embroidery along the way, discover the different steps that went into the expert making of the tarot-inspired dresses produced in the House's ateliers for the Dior ready-to-wear spring-summer 2017 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri.

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Make-up

For the ready-to-wear spring-summer 2017 show, Peter Philips, the Creative and Image Director of Dior Makeup, devised a beauty look that was fresh and natural.

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Interview with Peter Philips

The Creative and Image Director of Dior Makeup speaks about the fresh and light beauty look he developed for the ready-to-wear spring-summer 2017 show.

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